Beast - an apt name for an iconic fine dining restaurant in Portland, Oregon that made chef-owner Naomi Pomeroy a nationally recognized culinary icon.
The Beast concept was simple excellence: its highest quality ingredients were locally sourced - whether in Portland or from Southern France - and six-course prix fixe meals were French-comfort food inspired. Naomi's legendary high standards applied to everything and everyone: her lauded tasting menus and the employees she championed.
Dinners in the 24-seat restaurant were served at long communal tables that cultivated a sublime sense of community.
A friend and I had the great good fortune to dine at Beast before Naomi closed it in March 2020.
Naomi Pomeroy's prominence as a chef and restaurateur cannot be overstated. She won a prestigious James Beard award for Best Chef: Northwest in 2014. The Oregonian named Beast Restaurant of the Year in 2008.
Naomi reflected in 2018 on criticism of her management style, recognizing with sadness her demands that staff "should sacrifice family time and work 70 hour work weeks for paltry wages."
That reflection led to significant changes in how she ran her businesses and her advocacy for the restaurant industry. She offered her employees paid time off, profit-sharing options and benefits - a commitment against the exploitation of the historical restaurant model.
So it was with equal parts sadness and joy that Paul and I dined last night at L'Echelle, the pop-up restaurant Naomi Pomeroy had in the works when she died suddenly in July, just five weeks ago at age 49. Naomi's partner and family agreed that she would want them to move ahead to follow her vision for the restaurant.
We decided to arrive early to beat the expected crowds. 5:00 PM worked out just fine. We were third in line at the register with the menu chalked-in on a large board to our right. The wine menu was written on a mirror behind the register.
The Pop Up uses a rear patio space at the Woodsman Tavern on Division St. Gorgeous old brick walls with thick wood beams overhead and large windows welcomed the evening light. Picnic tables were set up in a pea gravel covered garden area surrounded by lush vegetation that created a secluded and cozy informal atmosphere.
The menu was classic French Bistro: comfort food. We both had Chicken Schnitzel, dry rose´ wine, and a baguette with shallot butter. Water for the table was served in a large liter-sized stopper bottle. The flatware was impeccably beautiful, a reminder that this is not your ordinary Pop Up.
The Chicken Schnitzel was lightly breaded and expertly pounded into submission so that it almost melted in the mouth.
It reminded Paul of the many schnitzels and beers he had consumed in Germany during his tour in the military. Chickpea panisse was shaped into four rectangles then deep fried and accompanied with rouille (sauce) with saffron. We relished the culinary architecture of the stacked panisse and its feather-light crust with creamy chickpea filling. The rouille tied together the entire ensemble. Dry French rose´ was the perfect patio drink for a warm summer evening.
When we departed there was a long line of customers. We congratulated ourselves for our planned early arrival and headed home for dessert: homemade ice cream. Goat Cheese-Cherry for Paul and Olive Oil for Linda. You must try Olive Oil ice cream! It's a whole new experience. A perfect ending to lovely summer evening Pop Up dining.
Naomi's influence in the Portland community lives on in each ingredient, each meal, each bite of French comfort food.
We remember her with love and appreciation.